Smoke taint. What vineyard owners and winemakers have worried about for several years now has hit harder than ever in 2020. Of course, 2020. Why not? Everything else has.
Views of a local who has been in the hospitality side of the wine biz full- or part-time for about three decades. Maybe more importantly, an avid consumer of the local wines for over 40 years. Mostly general comments on the California wine business because that's what I know.
Smoke taint. What vineyard owners and winemakers have worried about for several years now has hit harder than ever in 2020. Of course, 2020. Why not? Everything else has.
In 1987 as interest in planting grapes in cooler areas of Sonoma County grew the Sonoma Coast appellation was born. It immediately took criticism for being too large (500,000 acres/780 sq miles) with much of the land not even being near the coast. The argument in favor was it all had coastal influence, but that description could include most of Sonoma County.
(Appellation = American Viticultural Area = AVA)
This would have been the weekend (Oct 2-3) for the annual public tasting of the gold medal winning wines. If ever there was a year where this wasn't going to happen 2020 is it. The event was canceled months ago because of the pandemic. Recent fires, still going strong, aren't threatening the fairgrounds in Santa Rosa that hosts the tasting, but the air quality is unhealthy.
Nonetheless the judging was held and there are winners. I have not tasted any of these as I would have at the public tasting in previous years so I can't offer any insight.
Here is the link to the award winners.
Sauvignon Blanc is the other white wine. In a number of ways it's a better wine than Chardonnay in my opinion. It's a clean, crisp, refreshing beverage. It's best chilled at refrigerator temp. This is notable because most Chard is better at a cool cellar temp and it's generally served to cold.
Chardonnay is fruity and often heavy, oily. Pinot Griggio/Gris more neutral (a drinking without thinking wine). Sauvignon Blanc is more herbal and bright (acidic). These general characteristics of the wine make it great in warm weather and make it a good food wine.
Sauv Blanc is also less expensive than Chard with most premium ones around $15-30, but there are many around $10-12.
You see movie critics give rotten reviews when due. Book and music reviewers will do the same. So where the heck are the bad wine reviews? Some guesses.
Current trends are in the alcohol biz are hard seltzer and orange wine. Maybe Piquette is next, or not. Hard seltzer is popular because it supposed to be healthier, refreshing, and easy drinking. Orange wine because it's different. Rosé is hot because it's easy to sip, guzzle, or quaff. And for the color, I guess.
With many things too little or too much is bad when it comes to things we put in our body. With some less is always better. With alcohol there are mixed messages.
Once we have our vaccine and herd immunity (and I'm hoping this is in a few months) what happens to wine and the wine business?
This is a year of widespread wildfires in California and much of the West. The fire season in the Wine Country started in earnest in August from lightning strikes and is still going strong, unfortunately. What's in store for this vintage? The quick answer is nobody is sure yet.
What is smoke taint?
In short, the wine tastes like a smoky campfire. You can read in-depth about smoke taint at Wine Spectator, "Understanding Smoke Taint in Wine."
Previous years with smoke taint
The first time I remember smoke taint in wine was in 2008 when there were spring lightning strike fires to the north of Sonoma in Mendocino County. A smoky haze hung over the area for much of June of that year. Northern Sonoma and Napa and especially Mendocino County were the most affected. Then in 2017 wildfires happened at harvest time. I haven't had a lot of wine from this vintage, but it seems smoke taint is hit-or-miss. A reputable vintner should not be selling you smoke tainted wine anyway.
What affect might it have this year?
You can read about that here from from Food & Wine, "Do California Grapes Have Smoke Taint from Wildfires?"
If some foods get any more scarce we may be recreating Hawaii with Spam and eggs.