Vermentino in Sonoma County

Several Italian grape varietals are catching on in California, from Fiano to Barbera. The current hot one is Vermentino, as it's showing up in more wineries in Sonoma County, and around the state.

Vermentino grapes
image from vinetur.com

 

Where is it from?
Vermentino seems to have originated in either Sardinia or Corsica. A lot of it still comes from there, along with Tuscany and nearby Liguria (aka the Italian Riviera) as well as Provence, France near the Italian border (home to the French Riviera). Additionally, Spain, Australia, and California have become important growing regions. The south of France has had a significant growth in Vermentino plantings in the past 25 years.

Where does it grow?
Vermentino thrives in a Mediterranean climate characterized by warm sunny dry days which are moderated by a maritime influence, similar to California's premium grape-growing regions. Sonoma County is considered one of the prime regions for Vermentino's future. 

What does it taste like?
Vermentino is similar to Sauvignon Blanc in that both are lighter bodied, dry, crisp and refreshing, with high acidity. While SB is often characterized by grapefruit and herbaceous notes, Vermentino tends to exhibit flavors of citrus, apple, pear with minerality that can include notes of stone and salinity. Seafood, chicken, and pesto are natural food parings -- think Mediterranean dishes.

image from loyalimports.com

Where is it in California? 
According to the 2023 state crop report, Vermentino is a minor variety, with only 150 acres planted across the entire state! The coastal areas are home to about 75 acres of Vermentino;   the Sierra Foothills 25 acres.

Why Sonoma County? 
Most of the county has warm, dry summers, moderated by a marine influence from the Pacific Ocean. Local grape growers are noting a warming climate, resulting in microclimates where some Chardonnay vineyards are becoming too hot for optimal wine production. These areas could be ideal for Vermentino. Carneros, Sonoma Valley, and Dry Creek Valley are the prime regions growing Vermentino now.

Which Sonoma County wineries produce it?
Several wineries have Vermentino, including Coppola, Marine Layer, Pax, Portalupi, Reeve, Ryme, Seghesio, and Unti. 
Per Google AI, Mahoney Vineyards, along with its second label, Fleur, makes the most Vermentino of any winery in the state. They use Carneros fruit, have an office in Napa, and do not have a tasting room.

What other California wineries produce it?
A few notable wineries in the state with Vermentino are Bella Grace, Benessere, Flora Springs, Neal, Ojai, Scott Harvey, and Tablas Creek.

What to try next?
If you enjoy Sauvignon Blanc and Vermentino consider trying Chenin Blanc (sheh-nun blahnk) and Gruner Veltliner (groo-nur velt-liner) as well.