Spare No Expense Wine Palaces

Where architecture and egos meet in Napa and Sonoma. 

You could argue the fancy destination winery buildings were started in the '70s by Mondavi though there are several older fancy wineries like Beringer and Inglenook. Mondavi's style actually looks pretty tame today. Also, Jordan, Chateau Montelena, or Domaine Carneros have somewhat fancy chateaus, but are nothing compared to those below.

Castello di Amorosa, Calistoga

Sattui spent an estimated $30m to build a very good representation of a medieval castle. Not sure what it's doing in Napa, but it sure is popular. I've tasted, toured, and have been to a couple medieval themed events, and it's a lot of fun, but the wine seems to be an afterthought, like with several of the others listed here.

Darioush, Napa

The owner's family is from Iran, so he decided to bring Persian art and architecture to Napa, and it seems out of place unless you're expecting a Disneyland-like experience. I've never tasted here; I drove up once after it opened to marvel at the Vegas-style entrance.

Donum, Sonoma

In Carneros, where your basic absentee landlord billionaire has built an indoor and outdoor art studio. The wine is expensive, the atmosphere is a bit stuffy. I have visited and was honestly not impressed by the wine. It's great they have made some of their art collection available for viewing. However, tasting reservations are required to visit. If you want to do your own informal tour of an outdoor sculpture exhibit, visit Paradise Ridge Winery in Santa Rosa.

Ferrari-Carano, Healdsburg

In northern Dry Creek Valley where vineyards and hillsides covered in oak trees are the norm sits a large, but not gaudy representation of a European chateau surrounded by acres of green manicured lawn and gardens. It's the lawn and gardens that, while beautiful, look completely out of place with the local flora. The original owners are second generation Italians who own and operate a casino in Reno. I've visited, and it's very nice to walk through the outside garden area in the spring or summer. It's a beautiful building inside and out.

Hamel, Sonoma

A rich family from Wisconsin decides they'd like some of that wine country lifestyle and spare no expense to impress guests. Our tables for the tasting were made from Indonesian petrified wood that our hostess claimed cost $10k each. While it's not really flashy, you can see where lots of money has been spent. Sonoma Valley really isn't like this. Too bad money wasn't spent on hiring an experienced winemaker. At least, when I visited shortly after opening, the experience was fine, but the wines were not. From their website, I see they now have an assistant winemaker and consultants, so maybe they've improved.

Ledson, Kenwood

Ledson built himself what I call an Addams' Family Castle. It's so out of place among the Sonoma Valley vineyards. It so looks like it would be a great place for a Halloween party or a setting for a Frankenstein movie. They have a marketplace/deli, several different tastings available, and make a lot of different wines. I've visited a couple of times and enjoyed it, but every time I drive by I just look and laugh a bit at the dark, brooding castle. I have yet to drive by at night during a thunderstorm -- that would be awesome.

Then there's the Tank Garage Winery,
a converted gas station in Calistoga