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Tuesday, January 14, 2025

About Pinot Noir, Part 1

  You could call it America's most trendy premium wine. Part 1 is a short history of Pinot Noir and some of its unique characteristics. The next post, Part 2, is on Pinot in California.


Burgundy, France. The home of Pinot Noir (and Chardonnay)

Origin

  Pinot Noir is traced back 2,000 years in Roman writings, where it was described as growing in Burgundy, France. It, no doubt, grew in the wild long before that and may have originated in Egypt's Nile Valley, though no one is quite sure. Pinot Noir is the grandparent of Sauvignon Blanc and the great-grandparent of Cabernet Sauvignon. Chardonnay is a cross between Pinot Noir and a now-extinct white grape. So it's no coincidence that Pinot and Chardonnay grow well in the same places.

  Pinot Noir was widely propagated over the past couple of centuries and is found in cooler climate growing areas everywhere. This includes France, Spain, Germany, Italy, Switzerland, England, Chile, Argentina, U.S., Canada, New Zealand, and Australia.

Peculiarities

Clones
  Perhaps because it is so old, Pinot Noir has many more genetic mutations than other popular grapes, meaning there are many clones with most being distinctly different from the others. There are several hundred clones of Pinot grown in Burgundy and Champagne. There are over 50 used in the U.S.
  Clones are identified by names or numbers. For instance, Dijon clone 777 is known for being rich, fruity, spicy. The Pommard clone originated near the Pommard village in Burgundy and has characteristics of dark fruit, earth, and is ageable. Pommard is very popular in the Willamette region of Oregon.
  Some of California's most popular clones are Calera, Swan, Pommard, Martini, 115, 667, and 777. Some clones, like Swan, originated in Burgundy over a hundred years ago and have mutated enough to be given their own name, so they are American clones.
  Other grapes have clones, too, of course. Outside of Chardonnay, you don't hear much about them.

Thin skin
  The thin skins lead to its lighter color and flavors. Thin skins can also cause weather-related problems. The grapes can easily mold if there's wet weather. Hail can easily cut through the thin grape skins. Too much sun can shrivel up the grapes.

Soil requirements
  A slightly acid soil pH is best. If the pH is on the low side or high side, it can change the flavor of the wine. Roots must be kept dry, so good drainage is essential. In Burgundy, the clay/limestone soil is famous for growing Pinot. Likewise, the sandy loam Goldridge soils of Sonoma County are great for Pinot.

Climate
  A cool climate is essential for great Pinot Noir. In Sonoma County, growers kept pushing the limits of climate by putting in vineyards all the way out to the chilly Sonoma County coast with excellent results.
   Pinot buds early making it susceptible to spring frost.
  Climates like west Sonoma County's cool foggy mornings, followed by several hours of warm sun, then rapidly cooling evening air, and lack of summer rain are perfect for growing Pinot.

Hard to grow
  The clone, the soil, and the climate all make a significant difference in the wine you get in the bottle. Frost, sun/heat sensitivity, plus moisture/humidity sensitivity also add to potential problems. Other grapes certainly have some of these same problems, but none seem to be quite so easily affected by the variables of farming.

Aging
  Most Pinot can be enjoyed when young, at about three years from release. Many from good vintages can age for a decade or two. I find most are enjoyable five to seven years from their vintage year.

Food Matching

  Classic parings are salmon, lamb, and mushrooms. Grilled foods, including chicken and pork, work with Pinot. Anything with more earthy than rich sauces, including pasta dishes and pizza, also go well. Examples are Spaghetti Bolognese and Margherita pizza. As Pinot Noir is a lighter wine, generally lighter dishes do well. Nothing too strong or too spicy.


  Some resources for Parts 1 and 2:
The History of Pinot Noir from California Corks
The History of Pinot Noir from MacRostie Winery
California Pinot Noir from Wine-Searcher
The Complete Guide to Pinot Noir Grapes from La Crema Winery
A Beginner's Guid to Pinor Noir Clones from Kramer Vineyard

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