Norton Safeweb

Tuesday, June 13, 2023

High-End Sauvignon Blanc

Most people look on Sauv Blanc as a relatively inexpensive alternative to Chardonnay. It has a different flavor profile, for sure, being bright/acidic, grassy, grapefruit. New Zealand is famous for their $10 Sauvignon Blanc, California for their $20+/- SB.

Did you know there are luxury Sauvignon Blancs out there that cost over $100? 

A Little History

California Sauv Blanc had a bad reputation in the "old days," pre-1980s. It wasn't grown in the right places, like a lot of other grapes at the time. It wasn't made very well and seemed kind of an afterthought of a wine. It was often semi-sweet.

Along came Robert Mondavi who wanted to change that, so he came up with the name Fumé Blanc to mean it had some barrel aging. Fumé is a style of wine, not a different grape, inspired by Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. A barrel aged Sauv Blanc will be fuller-bodied, rounder (less acidic), more tropical fruit rather tan grapefruit, maybe smoky (fumé means smoky in French). It was a hit for Mondavi and is perhaps still their most well-known wine.

Today the names Sauvingnon Blanc and Fumé Blanc are used interchangeably. That is, there are numerous wineries labeling a wine as Fumé Blanc that may or may not be barrel aged, as there's no legal definition.

Merry Edwards Winery

In Sonoma County, Merry Edwards is the best known example of an SB that's seen oak as they barrel ferment it. Yes, they call it Sauv Blanc, not Fumé. The winery makes outstanding Pinot Noir, but the Sauv Blanc seems to be their most well-known wine. Perhaps because it's a Sauv Blanc made somewhat like a Chardonnay. It retails for about $40, a pretty high price. Why so high? It costs more to make; there's a lot more labor and barrels aren't cheap. Also, it sells out early every year, so there's supply and demand.

Robert Mondavi Reserve Fumé Blanc

From the famous To-Kalon Vineyard in Oakville, the home of some very expensive Cabernets, comes Mondavi's To-Kalon Fumé retailing for $95.

Way expensive Sauvingnon Blanc

The small Dana Estates Winery in Napa makes a Sauv Blanc from Howell Mountain fruit that spends 20 months in French oak, most of it new. Their website doesn't let you see the price unless you sign up for their mailing list. I see prices on the internet ranging from $250 to $400. Another small winery, making less than 100 cases of their Sauv Blanc that looks like it retails for about $200. Again, you have to get on the mailing list before you can be startled by the prices.

These expensive Sauvignon Blancs are very low production, so there's enough of a market for them in this price range, as it doesn't take that many Bay Area dentists to buy them all. (That was a joke)

No comments:

Post a Comment