It's not climate or soil or history, it's identity. It's a distant 650 miles from the Sonoma Valley AVA to the middle of Washington, but they share this commonality. Neither has a distinct identity that most well-known wine growing areas possess.
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| Sonoma Valley, where many vineyards aren't actually on the valley floor image from Sonoma Valley Visitors Bureau |
When you think of Napa Valley, their signature grape is Cabernet Sauvignon. Sure, they make plenty of other wines, but Cab is why most people visit and what most people buy. Cab is actually less than half of Napa's wine production, though more than half in value.
In Sonoma County's Russian River Valley you think of Pinot Noir though Chardonnay is actually the top crop. Dry Creek Valley is about Zinfandel, as is Lodi in the Central Valley.
When you think Oregon, you think Pinot Noir, which is about 60% of this state's total grape production. Pinot Gris is the next most popular wine grape grown.
Sonoma Valley
I've lived on the edge of this AVA for several decades, and I can't come up with a signature grape for Sonoma Valley. So what is there to draw visitors? I think it's mostly the region's proximity to the town of Sonoma, where many visitors stay.
Sonoma Valley has a fair amount of old vine Zinfandel, something prized by zinheads, like myself. When the modern era of California wines started in the 1970s, Merlot and Chardonnay were very popular here. The top grape now seems to be Cabernet Sauvignon.
Some of the problem might be the various climates and soils. The south end of SV boarders on Carneros and cooler air off the San Pablo Bay. The north end is influenced by the cool breezes from the Pacific. The middle is warmer. There's valley floor vineyards and mountain fruit to the warmer east and cooler west. So pretty much any grape can grow somewhere in the Sonoma Valley AVA.
Washington
The state borders on the cool waters of the Pacific. As you go east, there are the Cascade Mountains where the rains get squeezed out, making the eastern part of the state a high desert with hot summers and cold winters. This is where you find most of the wine grapes
When I did a search for what wines Washington is known for, I got Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. What I think of is Cabernet, Syrah, and Riesling. During a Washington State wine tasting in Seattle a few years ago, I also discovered their excellent Cabernet Franc and some great red blends.
I think Chateau Ste. Michelle was most people's introduction to Washington wines, so whatever is popular there is what many will think of statewide. Sadly, Ste. Michelle is no longer what it used to be as it was sold to a private equity firm. The wines have changed, and private equities usually milk companies of profits off their name before leaving them in shambles. This may be Chateau Ste. Michelle's fate. Too bad.
Chateau Ste. Michelle tried to make Riesling the signature grape, but it's just not that popular of a wine. Their other top wine, Merlot, has been in a national sales decline for a couple of decades. Syrah, which may be the state's best wine, never gained the popularity growers in Washington and California hoped for. Cabernet Sauvignon is locked down by Napa with help from Sonoma and Paso Robles. Chardonnay runs into the ABC gang -- Anything But Chardonnay.
The lack of a signature grape like Oregon or Napa should not be considered a fault. However, the lack of a clear definition for the state's wine does hurt it in sales and marketing.
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| Washington State's wine growing regions image from Washington Wine Commission Click on image to enlarge |
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