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Friday, February 4, 2011

Three winery stops in the Russian River Valley

Recently I stopped by three tasting rooms near Healdsburg in the Russian River area (just on the "border" with Dry Creek Valley).

J
Known for their sparkling wines, but J Vineyards also make several Pinot Noirs and a few other wines.
We sampled four Brut-style sparklers priced from $30 to $65.  The '99 Brut was my favorite.  I sampled one single vineyards Pinot at $50 out of about six available.
In the past I've liked J's wines, but this time didn't really care too much for them.  The Brut rosé was okay, but I've had better.  Others were too yeasty and one had an odd smell.  I understand the California fruit-forward style vs. the French yeasty, less fruity style, but these sparklers just didn't do it for me especially for the price.
Just too lean and mean for me.  Maybe with food? 
I selected the one Pinot because she called it more restrained, but it smelled and tasted of alcohol.  Also sampled a Pinotage that was okay, but not for $38.

Rodney Strong
Not quite an old-timer in the area, but one of the first in the modern California wine boom of 40 years ago.  They are known for their Cabernets and didn't disappoint as they were are very good.  My favorites were the '08 Alexander Valley at $25 and the '07 Symmetry Meritage (Cabernet blend) at $55.  The '07 Reserve Cab at $40 will be good in time--it's a big one. 
When you compare their quality and prices to Napa Cabs...well, you can't because you'd pay twice as much for "Napa" on the label.

Twomey
A sister winery to Silver Oak started up to make Merlot as Silver Oak is Cabernet only.  That worked for awhile then the movie "Sideways" came along and Merlot sales tanked so they got into Pinot Noir and bought this Russian River property (the old Roshambo winery). 
They are doing just fine with Pinots.  The '08 Sonoma Coast was my favorite (they were sold out of the '08 Russian River already).   It was restrained and balanced and actually showed some acid!  They had an '08 from the north end of Anderson Valley in Mendocino County.  This was the area hit by forest fires and smoke early in the growing season.  Many of the wines from here show smoke or weren't even made in 2008.  This one did not have any smoke taint, but had kind of an odd roundness.  I say odd because you expect brightness and acidity from that region.  Maybe there was some manipulation for the smoke that changed the wine? This wine wasn't bad, it tasted fine, just not quite what I expected. Their Pinots retailed for $50.
A beautiful tasting room with great views.


From Twomey looking over the Russian River area
back towards Rodney Strong


Pricing
I don't know where all the $50 Pinots are coming from.  Haven't they heard about the recession?  Or maybe $50 is selling as poorly as $40 so why not keep the prices up.
In 2010 J Winery "reevaluated" their prices and dropped many.  They still have a ways to go.  Twomey, as part of Silver Oak, will probably always be on the high side.   Untrendy, unsexy Rodney Strong Winery seems spot on in value.

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