Cool Spots for Pinot Noir

Pinot loves a cool growing season. The grapes are thin-skinned, ripen early, and want slow maturing to retain their acids. A warmer climate means the thin skins get damaged by the hot sun, the acids are degraded, and the grape sugars shoot up before the flavors can develop. You wind up with a flabby, soft, simple wine. 

Magnum of Burgundy, anyone? Click on image to enlarge.
image from caskcartel.com

 

About Pinot Noir 

Pinot Noir is very terroir-driven, which is a fancy way of saying the specific climate, soil and topography make noticeable changes to the wine. Of any varietal I've had, Pinot seems the most affected by small changes in terroir.

The other factor is clones. All grape varieties have clones, but you don't hear a lot about them other than with Pinot, because these can be significantly different.  Some are more fruity, earthy, tannic, or acidic, for instance. Clones are chosen for a vineyard, based on and the site terroir and the desired style of Pinot. It's also based on yields and disease resistance.

Following are the more significant areas that are growing good Pinot Noir.

Where good Pinot is found there will also be good Chardonnay. 

Outside the U.S. 

Burgundy, France is the ancestral home and recognized as home to the top Pinots. These, unfortunately, sell at top prices. (Funny how that works). There are relative bargains, too, you just have to look. Also in Europe, the Baden and Ahr regions of Germany. Down under, the Casablanca region of Chile, Patagonia in Argentina, Tasmania in Australia, and Central Otago in New Zealand produce good Pinot. The latter has gotten a lot of buzz in the last few years.

In the U.S., outside of California

The Willamette Valley of Oregon is very well-known for Pinot Noir. The best ones are elegant, bright, earthy, with somewhat subdued red fruit giving them a structure and balance similar to Burgundy. This doesn't mean they taste the same as Burgundy. Remember that specific growing regions produce site-specific Pinot Noirs.

A foggy Russian River Valley morning
image from Balletto Vineyards

California

Going north to south, the areas listed are official American Viticultural Areas.

Anderson Valley in Mendocino County makes vibrant, balanced, bright red fruit Pinot.

Sonoma County produces more Pinot Noir than any other county in the state from multiple growing areas.

Russian River Valley is the best-known appellation in the state for Pinot. They are often fruitier and have a silky texture. RRV is known for fruit-driven, soft Pinot, but this area is big with lots of microclimates, so a lot of Pinot from here has more acids, tannins and savory elements.

Sonoma Coast is all over the board as this growing area is huge so the wines can take on the characteristics of any other area mentioned here.

West Sonoma Coast, known locally as The Real Sonoma Coast, is the coolest area in the county. The Pinots are elegant and structured. They are crisp, with red fruits, including cranberry, lighter colors, lighter body, and lower alcohol.

Carneros Pinots are earthy, elegant, and savory, with more subtle fruit than Russian River Valley. Part of Carneros is in Napa County.

Smaller, lesser-known growing regions are Green Valley, Fort Ross-Seaview, and Petaluma Gap. These small areas tend to make low production, high demand wines.

Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County makes bright red and black fruit Pinots with added complexity from savory components. SLH Pinot is similar to Russian River Valley with RRV a bit more fruit-forward and SLH depending a bit more on spices. Arroyo Seco is another significant Monterey growing area.

Sta. Rita Hills in Santa Barbara County is a premier growing area for Pinot Noir known as vibrant, earthy, and savory. Sta. stands for Santa, but was shortened after a trademark conflict with a winery in Chile. Santa Maria and Santa Ynez also grow Pinot. 

 

Sta. Rita Hills
image from Santa Barbara County Vintners

If I were to purchase California Pinot Noir based on growing appellation only then I'd buy from Anderson Valley, West Sonoma Coast, or Sta Rita Hills. If cost is an issue, then buy from Anderson Valley or Monterey County.