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Friday, October 6, 2017

Zinfandel Confuses a Lot of People

Many folks aren't really sure what Zinfandel is supposed to be. It's certainly had its share of mystery, changes, and ups and downs in the marketplace.

Mecca for Zinfandel lovers
Brief History of Zinfandel

For a long time the origin of Zin was a mystery. Through DNA testing done by UC Davis it was traced to an obscure grape grown in Croatia. The grape made its way across the Adriatic Sea to southern of Italy in the 18th century as Primitivo and came to the eastern U.S. in the early 19th century where it became known as Zinfandel. In the mid-19th century the grape made its way to California during the Gold Rush.

The Early Days in California

Zinfandel, along with a lot of other red grapes, became blending grapes used in jug wines. You could also find Zinfandel on its own as a dry table wine, but it wasn't known much outside of California. Most Zin was actually planted as field blends meaning the vineyard might contain other grapes such as Petite Sirah, Carignane, and Alicante Bouschet.

The 1970s and 80s

Zinfandel as a red table wine continued to languish. In 1972 Sutter Home "invented" white zinfandel and it became hugely popular in the '80s. It's a pink, somewhat sweet, easy-drinking wine that was a hit with the casual wine drinker. There are millions of cases made every year and this is why many people believe Zinfandel is supposed to be pink. A real shame.

The late 1990s

California wine went through a stylistic change where Zinfandel (and other wines) became softer, fruitier, plus more approachable when young because of the lower tannins. Well, it turns out Zin truly took to this new style and really soared in the marketplace as a fruity, juicy, big red "fruit bomb."
 
One labeled 13.5% alcohol, the other 15.8%. Definitely different styles
Today

You see single vineyard Zinfandel just like with those fancy Pinot Noirs. There is Old Vine Zinfandel. You also see alcohol levels hitting 16% though that's being toned down a bit. You do see two camps with Zinfandel producers with those "old style" ones of around 14% alcohol and some structure (tannins, acids) and the fruity 15% or so versions. All the wines don't, of course, easily fit into those two boxes.

Zinfandel is really Sonoma County's grape though it's grown many other places in the state. Turns out Zin grows in pretty much any climate zone except the coolest areas near the Pacific Ocean. So different areas like Russian River Valley, Dry Creek, Paso Robles or Lodi will all make quality Zins, but the styles are different. There is a lot of Zinfandel grown in California with the vast majority planted in the hot Central Valley where it mostly goes into wines like White Zinfandel and inexpensive red blends.

Premium Zinfandel

If you haven't had a high-quality Zin before you are missing out. It can be difficult to find in some parts of the country. Most of the Zinfandel found in retail stores east of California come from large operations with good distribution, but not necessarily great Zinfandel. AKA Gallo labels. Look for smaller producers from Sonoma, Napa, Paso Robles, Amador, and Lodi.

Food pairings for (red) Zinfandel

My first thought is for Zinfandel as a spaghetti wine, but it's a lot more than that. Yes, pretty much anything that's tomato-based from lasagna to pizza is great. A lot of grilled meats work well especially sausages and pork ribs. Any hearty meal. Any meal with a big, hearty sauce. I often match Zin with grilled chicken when I use slightly spicy BBQ sauce. Try a few quality Zinfandels with your favorite meals. You owe it to yourself.

This sign at Preston Vineyards says it all

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